“With Blue Sky Above and the
majestic Hudson Below
A glorious confusion of coloryellow and orange, scarlet
and crimson, intermingled with the eternal green of the hemlock and firand above
all, a line of perpendicular gray cliffs, standing out against a deep blue sky! Thus at
this season of the year appear the Palisades, robed in the glory of Autumnal foliage,
while the majestic Hudsona dreamy haze hanging over its bosomflows silently
past their base on its way to the sea
”
So wrote the New York
Recorder in
October, 1893. And while we may find the prose a bit overblown, the description still
strikes us as quite apt of this most enchanting time of year, when our tall cliffs and
their tenacious forests never seem more wildly picturesque.
It may be tempting,
then, to suppose that here, at least, a piece of New Jersey’s woodlands has been preserved
as it has stood for centuries untold, a sliver of the Forest Primeval just as Henry Hudson
came upon in 1609. Temptingbut extravagantly unrealistic. For in truth the forest
world is a dynamic one, and even in those places we assume to be relatively
“pristine,” dramatic changes have occurred over the centurieschanges now
vastly accelerated by human activity.
No tale, we feel, brings this
truth closer to home than that of the American chestnut,
Castanea dentata.

Castanea dentata. USDA-NRCS
PLANTS Database / Britton, N.L., and A. Brown. 1913.
An illustrated flora of the northern United States, Canada
and the British Possessions. Vol. 1: 615.
At the time of Hudson’s visit,
this cousin of the oak was in all likelihood the dominant tree of the
Palisades—as it was for much of the Eastern Seaboard, thriving in acid upland
soils from New England to Alabama. (In the Appalachian Mountains, it is believed
that as many as one in every four trees was an American chestnut.) The chestnut
was a blessing to the settlers who followed Hudson, its delicious nuts soon a
dietary staple. Its bark was stripped and used for roofing. Boards hewn from its
straight trunks and limbs were found to season well and take to gluing and
nailing without warping or shrinking. A fast growing tree—one of the reasons it
was so successful—it could be harvested with little threat of being wiped out.
Hard and lightweight, it was easily worked, with the finished product taking a
high polish, making it a favorite for furniture stock, while its graceful form
shaded innumerable courthouse lawns. Perhaps best of all, its wood was famously
resistant to rot, ideal for fence posts and, later, railroad ties. By the mid-nineteenth
century, it
had become one of the most important trees economically in North America. (Besides its
other virtues, its bark and wood were rich in tannic acid, essential for leather-making,
and the chestnut became a mainstay of the American leather industry. Wood pulp, a
byproduct of tannin extraction, made it a mainstay of the burgeoning paper industry as
well, resulting in an often complex, interdependent relationship between the two
industries.)
And none of this even hints at
C.
dentata’s ecological importance to our native forests. In this ancient world, the fast
growing, resilient tree with its nutritious fruit was no less a mainstay, in many ways
defining
the forests in which it grew. (The term “chestnut-oak forest” gets repeated time
and again in the descriptions written by naturalists of a century ago.) To say this tree
was an integral part of the forest habitat here in the East is, surely, grossly to
understate matters.
No wonder, then, that around 1904 and
starting here in the New York region, not even professional naturalists seemed to
recognize how momentous a tragedy was underway, as the first chestnut trees began to die.
A forester named Herman W. Merkel noticed
something wrong with the chestnuts on the grounds of the Bronx Zoo in that year. Cankers
had formed on their trunks, encircling them. The cankers were soon to kill the trees above
the point of infection. Mycologists in the New York Botanical Garden identified the
culprit as a previously unknown fungus, to which they gave the name Endothia parasitica.
Still, E. parasitica was at that point seen as an interesting but relatively
unimportant event, a topic for specialists to discuss. Even as the blight spread into
neighboring states, scientists were slow to recognize the potential enormity of the
disaster, and it was not until 1911 that funds were first appropriated$5,000 by the
U.S. Congressto combat the problem.
By then trees in Philadelphia had begun
to die.
The following year Congress upped its
appropriation to $80,000, and in 1913 the Pennsylvania legislature would itself weigh in
with an appropriation of $240,000 and the creation of a Chestnut Tree Blight Commission.
This was an impressive outlay in the dollars of the time, and a strong course of action
for a state to take on behalf of a tree.
Unfortunately, it was already too late.
That same year,
botanists working in China found the blight on chestnut trees
“9 days by bullock cart
northeast of Peking.” This seemed to confirm what the Blight Commission had come
already to suspect, that the disease had originated in the Orient, most likely arriving in
New York Harbor with a shipment of nursery stock from China. But how had it spread so
quickly? Certainly, its spores could be carried by the wind, perhaps as far as half a mile
on a dry, gusty day. Yet that could hardly account for its spread across hundreds of miles
in a few short years.
E. parasitica, it
turned out, had two kinds of spores, the smaller of these having the more effective
mode of travel. These had thin, gelatinous threads attached to them, and they stuck by the
thousands to the feet of birds. (As many as seven thousand were counted on the feet of a single
woodpecker.) At last the sobering magnitude of the disaster became apparent: not a single
chestnut tree in North America could be considered safe.
By the end of the World War
I, the
North American “chestnut-oak forest” was a standing graveyard, the dead trunks,
in a macabre testament to their famed tenacity, still upright, their wood to be harvested
for decades to come. (Much of the wood in the structures built by the
New Deal agencies during the 1930s
here in the Park was chestnut taken from the standing dead on the Palisades.) Fence posts
and railroad ties, some cut a century or more ago, are still sought by craftsmen and
builders to this day.
Here on the Palisades, a handful of adult
chestnut trees still survive (a large specimen only succumbed in
Greenbrook
Sanctuary about five years ago). Sadly, their fruit remains infertile.
Saplings sometimes spring from the stumps of former giants; almost invariably,
they soon contract the blight and die.
Extinction is, as they say, as old as the
hills. And if, as they also say, there are a million stories in the naked city, then there
may be a million more in the leaf-clad world of the forest, where life and death and
change are the endless norms. The forest habitat has always been a dynamic
oneonly the pace has picked up some in recent centuries. The story of the American
chestnut is a particularly dramatic example of an ongoing theme in our modern world, as we
bring the four corners of the globe into ever closer contact. (The
“eternal
green” of our hemlock groves has also begun to whither and fade in recent years,
another blight brought to this continent from afar.) And as in the case of
“natural” extinction, of course, new species are always ready to fill the
proverbial vacuum so abhorred by nature (see related story, below).
Certainly, we don’t mean to put a damper
on anyone’s enjoyment of fall, a time of year when we tend to notice trees more than at
any otherfor in the appreciation of nature may begin the road to its preservation.
Nor do we offer any handy, pat solutions for the kinds of issues raised by the tale of the
chestnut. But as stewards of a “natural” preserve, neither can we safely ignore
such tales, as they continue to have a direct bearing on the land in our care. Certain
tales of the forest, we feeleven sad onesshould be told.
The story of the chestnut blight is from
Trees: An Introduction to Trees and Forest Ecology for the Amateur Naturalist, by
Laurence C. Walker (Prentice-Hall, 1984). Special thanks as always, too, to the staff of
Greenbrook Sanctuary for additional insight.
EN